martes, octubre 31, 2006

Fiambre

Como la familia de mi madre era española, no tenía tradición de hacer fiambre, sino de comerlo. Mi padre iba hacia las once de la mañana al restaurante Bianchini --que luego se transformó en Altuna-- y que quedaba en el segundo piso de una casa en la sexta avenida y doce calle de la zona uno. Yo lo acompañaba, y mientras preparaban varios inmensos platos echaba una vistazo sobre la baranda para observar el salón de billares que había en el primer piso.

Me llamaba la atención el ruido de las bolas al chocar. Por entonces estaba muy lejos de prever que años más tarde, en la sede de la APG, pasaría al menos una hora diaria jugando pool de una manera desastrosa para exorcizar las maldades del día de los años setenta y ochenta.

Armados con el fiambre, y metidos en el taxi de Guerrita, como mi abuelo había bautizado al taxista, repartíamos fiambres y llevábamos el último recipiente, rebosante de delicias, a casa. Cuando tenía 16 años, mi amiga María Eugenia Dardón me enseñó a hacer fiambre y desde entonces hasta que mi hija se casó con el dueño de Astoria, siempre disfruté la tarea de comprar, cortar, marinar y comer esa creación sobre la que corren tantas falsedades que, a fuerza de ser repetidas, llegarán a cobrar carta de verdad. Lo cierto es que nadie sabe cómo surgió el fiambre.

Lo que puede decirse es que fiambre significa carne preparada fría y, en acepción figurada, muerto, pasado. Más allá no doy fe.

Afortunadamente para la familia, que es la que se beneficia de pasar buenos ratos reunida, hace años recuperamos la tradición. Ayer recorrí varios supermercados con mi hija Irene para comprar la mayoría de los ingredientes del plato. Luego fuimos a una quesería y más tarde a una salchichonería. La vuelta nos llevó mucho rato porque esta ciudad es un desmadre y cuando llueve, el tráfico se pone imposible. Si Irene no hubiera manejado, no estaría esta mañana en tan buenas condiciones.

Por de pronto se han cocinado las remolachas y las habas están en proceso de ser peladas. Hasta ahí llegamos mi asistenta y yo. Pero dentro de media hora llegarán las hijas y los nietos y entonces los cuchillos y las tablas de picar comenzarán sus funciones. Sylvia lleva la voz cantante en lo que al caldillo se refiere. Hace tres o cuatro años logré meter entre los ingresdientes la canela, que agrega un rasgo diferente al sabor total.

Hoy no se cocina en casa. Comeremos sandwiches y papas fritas, limonada, té café y leche. Alguien, como a las siete de la tarde cuando ya todo esté listo para irse a refrigeración, pedirá cerveza y yo me meteré en cama para ver tele mientras el bullicio continúa en el primer piso.

Mañana, por supuesto, será el almuerzo y todos dirán que este año el fiambre está mejor que el del año pasado, contarán los mismos chistes de toda la vida, añadirán otros que se irán mezclando con la mitología familiar. Algunos todavía no comen fiambre. Entre ellos, mi nieta Daniela que se parece mucho a mí en todo, incluso en lo melindrosa que era cuando niña.

Pero comerán, sin duda, en años venideros. Y todos tendrán la receta de María Eugenia y mía, que ha venido a mezclarse con la de Sylvia y la de su amiga Tefa, y tal vez tenga un poco de la receta de Astoria, y seguiremos siendo felices, aún en los momentos en que estemos tristes y deprimidos, porque la nuestra es una familia de las que se reúnen alrededor de las mesas. Y ya se sabe, esas son las mejores.

102 Comments:

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Muy bueno tu blog!

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Blogger Jagilcorzo said...

Fiambre, mi plato favorito de comida chapina, y llevo 33 años de no comerlo.

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Blogger Ana said...

En el momento que querrás te mando la receta del caldillo, que es lo principal. Lo demás son verduras y embutidos, carne de pollo y sardinas.

¿Y que has estado haciendo estos 33 años?

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